Building a gaming PC doesn't have to empty your wallet. The sweet spot in 2026 is around the $600-800 range - you get genuinely good gaming performance without paying for diminishing returns. Above that, you're paying increasingly more money for increasingly smaller gains.
I've built dozens of PCs over the years, for myself and for friends, and I've learned where you can save money and where cutting corners will come back to bite you. Let's walk through what makes sense for a budget build right now.
What "Budget" Actually Gets You
Let's set realistic expectations. A well-built $700 PC in 2026 will give you:
- Solid 60+ FPS at 1080p on high settings in most games
- Playable 1440p in many titles (maybe not max settings)
- Smooth esports gaming at high refresh rates
- Capable machine for streaming, content creation, productivity
What it won't do is 4K gaming or ray tracing at high frame rates. That's fine - most people play at 1080p anyway, and that's where you get the most value for money.
Where to Spend vs. Where to Save
Not all components are equal when it comes to gaming performance. Here's the priority order:
Spend more on:
- GPU (Graphics Card): This is the single most important component for gaming. Allocate 35-40% of your budget here.
- Power Supply: A bad PSU can kill your components. Get a reliable unit from a known brand.
Save money on:
- CPU: Mid-range CPUs are almost as good as high-end for gaming. The difference is often 5-10% in frame rates.
- RAM: 16GB is plenty for gaming. 32GB is nice but unnecessary on a budget.
- Storage: A basic NVMe SSD is fine. The difference between a cheap and expensive NVMe is minimal for gaming.
- Case: A $50 case works just as well as a $150 case for airflow. You're paying for looks.
The Build: ~$700 Sweet Spot
Recommended 1080p Gaming Build
| Component | Recommendation | Price |
|---|---|---|
| CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 7500F or Intel i5-12400F | $150-170 |
| GPU | AMD RX 7600 or NVIDIA RTX 4060 | $250-280 |
| Motherboard | B650 or B660 (entry level) | $100-120 |
| RAM | 16GB DDR5-5200 or DDR4-3200 | $50-65 |
| Storage | 1TB NVMe SSD (any reputable brand) | $60-80 |
| PSU | 550W 80+ Bronze (Corsair, EVGA, etc.) | $50-60 |
| Case | Any with good airflow (mesh front) | $50-60 |
Prices fluctuate constantly, so use PCPartPicker to check current deals. These numbers are approximate and you might find better prices with sales or by hunting for deals.
AMD vs Intel Right Now
Both platforms are competitive in this price range. AMD's Ryzen 7000 series requires DDR5 which was expensive but has dropped in price significantly. Intel's 12th gen still uses DDR4, which is slightly cheaper.
For pure gaming at this budget, they're essentially equal - pick whichever has better deals when you're buying.
Pro tip: The "F" variants (12400F, 7500F) lack integrated graphics but cost less. Since you're using a dedicated GPU anyway, this is free savings.
The GPU is Everything
I can't stress this enough: the graphics card determines your gaming experience more than any other component. A Ryzen 5 with an RTX 4060 will crush a Ryzen 9 with an RTX 4050 in games.
The RX 7600 and RTX 4060 trade blows depending on the game. AMD is typically better value for raw rasterization. NVIDIA has better ray tracing and DLSS (AI upscaling). At this price point, I'd pick whichever is cheaper.
Avoid: the GTX 1650, GT 1030, or anything marketed as "budget" from several years ago. You're better off saving longer for a modern GPU than buying outdated hardware.
Things People Waste Money On
RGB everything: Cool? Yes. Worth $100 extra on a budget build? No.
Overpriced thermal paste: The stuff that comes with your cooler is fine. The difference between paste brands is measured in a few degrees.
"Gaming" branded anything: Gaming mouse pads, gaming network cards, gaming sound cards. Marketing fluff. Save your money.
Windows license: Windows 10/11 works fine without activation. The only difference is a watermark and some customization options. Worry about this after you've built the PC.
Extended warranties: Components either fail quickly (covered by manufacturer warranty) or last years. Extended warranties are pure profit for retailers.
Building Tips
- Watch a build guide video before you start. There are excellent ones on YouTube.
- The I/O shield goes in before the motherboard. Everyone forgets this at least once.
- Standoffs. Make sure the case has them installed where they need to be.
- Connect the front panel cables by reading the motherboard manual. Yes, actually read it.
- It won't post on the first try and you'll panic. This is normal. Check connections and try again.
Don't cheap out on the PSU. A bad power supply can damage every component in your system. Stick to known brands: Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic, Be Quiet. Avoid unknown brands even if they're half the price.
Used Market Considerations
Buying used can stretch your budget further, but be careful:
Good to buy used: GPUs (if tested), cases, monitors, peripherals
Risky to buy used: CPUs (can't test easily), RAM (can be subtly faulty), PSUs (you don't know how they've been treated)
Avoid used: Storage drives. You don't know how much life they have left.
If buying a used GPU, meet in person, test it in a system, and run a benchmark to check for artifacts or thermal issues.
Final Thoughts
A $700 build today is genuinely capable. It's not the best possible PC, but it'll play any game you throw at it at perfectly enjoyable settings. Build it, enjoy it, and upgrade piece by piece as your budget allows.
The best gaming PC is the one you can actually afford. Don't go into debt for higher frame rates. Don't wait forever for prices to drop. Build something now, and you'll have years of gaming ahead of you.
